Fadgen's Adventures: Dolomites Day Due

Punta Penia - the high point of the Marmolada

While planning this trip to Italy, I looked into climbing the highest peak in the Dolomites - Punta Penia. I pinged a few guide services, received two responses, and an outfit called Explore Share offered up a guide willing to provide a ski tour to the summit. Enrico Geremia (http://www.enricogeremia.it/ or www.explore-share.com/mountain-guide/enrico-geremia) and I traded many emails during the last month putting together this trip. I was hesitant since I had never used a guide before, but his enthusiasm was contagious.

Due to the highly variable weather the region has been having, we kept the day of the trip open. But, yesterday while we were out mountain bike riding, he contacted me and said today (Thursday) would have the best weather. He'd be at my hotel at 5AM.

Well 5AM arrived and he pulled up to the hotel door! Off to a good start. We quickly loaded my pack into this car and headed south to Passo Fedaia. We (me especially) were hoping to stop for some caffe, but with it being the off season nothing was open.

After about an hour we reached Passo Fedaia, parked, and sorted gear. Again, since it was the off season, Enrico's choices for my rental skis were limited. I asked for 180's but got 170's. I guess that's better than 190's!

After a quick avy beacon check, we were off, skinning up a ski run.

Enrico leading the way up the ski run from the parking lot

Another view of Enrico's back side

The previous evening, it rained hard during dinner and intermittently throughout the night in La Val. This meant fresh snow on Marmolada, which also meant breaking trail. Luckily, there was a group of two ahead of us that broke trail in the 6cm of fresh powder.

The views were phenomenal!

Enrico G photo of me

Punta Penia

As we moved higher, the fresh snow became deeper. At the moment, it felt pretty light, but since the temperature was warm, it wouldn't stay that way much longer.

Knowing that we had a short window before the scheduled afternoon rain showers showed up, Enrico kept a pretty steady pace up the mountain.

Enrico G photo

I did my best to keep up, but struggled. It might have been the lack of food and coffee, it might have been all the bike riding the past week, or it might have been the age difference. I do know that one contributing factor was my crappy kick turning technique. Rather than make broad traverses while skinning like I've done in the past, here it was go 20 feet, turn, go another 20 feet, turn... Bad kick turn technique wastes a lot of energy.

This picture does not do justice to the steepness. Note the other two skiers - they booted straight up

Enrico G photo

We just zig-zagged our way up the 35-40 degree slope until we reached where the two skiers are in the above photo. At this point we stopped and transitioned from skis to crampons and ice axes. Enrico put me on a short rope and we booted up the steeper slope to our right. At this point the fresh snow was approximately 20cm deep, resulting in a bit of client floundering.

Section we booted up

Enrico G Photo

Before we reached the ridge, Enrico stopped us again to transition back to skis. A little steep here, but...

Once on the shoulder, Enrico broke trail and continued to zig-zag his way up the steep slope. I continued to struggle with my kick turns.

You can just make out the other two skiers on the left skyline

Enrico G photo

The views continued to astound

Summit dead ahead

As I reached the summit, the clouds started rolling in. A few quick photos and it was time to transition to ski mode and start down.

Summit

Enrico and myself

Mesmerized by the views

The initial part of the descent was nice, not too steep and great snow. It then became steep with good snow, then very steep (the booting section) with so-so snow. Enrico gave me a few words of advice on this really steep (~50 degrees) section - "Don't fall!" Though my legs were burning, I did my best and managed to stay upright.

Enrico G photo

Enrico coming down

Our tracks are in there somewhere

As we moved lower, the snow conditions deteriorated until eventually we were skiing in mashed potatoes. Combine the snow conditions with the now flat light and it was difficult to stay upright. Though we both did manage to do just that and only had to walk the last 50 meters to the car.

It was a pretty awesome experience. If you are ever in the Dolomites and need a guide, don't hesitate to look up Enrico or contact Explore Share. Though this was my first guided experience, I highly recommend him.