I figured I'd piggyback off of what acclimatization and fitness I had left after Mexico, so I took a flight out of Vegas bound for Quito, Ecuador. One long travel day and a few delayed flights later, I was settled into my $7 a night hostel in downtown Quito, at around 3am. The next day dawned rainy, but nonetheless it was time for my first peak- Cumbre Ruco Pichincha.
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| Ruco Pinchincha from the top of the Teleferico |
Quito, with a rather robust tourism industry, installed a gondola up to about 12,500' on the slopes of Ruco, with some hiking and mountain biking trails departing from the upper station. A beautiful three-or-so hour walk and a little scrambling brought me to the summit, where I met a few other Americans and a few Caracaras.
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| Summit sign, 15,406' |
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| Caracara keeping me company |
Then it was back to the hostel to prepare for the next day, the bus ride to Riobamba.
I thought I was going to hop on a single bus, and it was going to take me the 100 or so kilometers to Riobamba. I was very wrong. After three very confusing hours, three different buses, and numerous people asking me to pay them in numbers I had a preschooler's grasp on, I exited a bus in the town of Riobamba. My goal here was to find the office of Andean Adventures, the outfit with which I had set up my climb of Chimborazo (the Ecuadorian Gov't requires the use of a guide on most volcanoes). A short walk, some paperwork, and another cheap hostel got me set up for the next day.
The plan at this point was to get up with my guide, Raul, in the morning, ride up in a taxi to the hut at 15,750', spend one night at the hut, hike around the next day, and try to sleep until 9pm the following evening and depart for the summit at 10.
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| High altitude Ecuadorian flora |
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| Chimborazo from the Park entrance |
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| Sunset- the one time we were not shrouded in mist at the hut |
9pm the day of the summit bid came around early, after laying in bed staring at the mattress above me for five or so hours. We stepped outside ready to roll just after 10pm, and to my surprise, could see stars! And familiar constellations, but in entirely different positions than I was used to.
We were headed up Ruta de Corredor, a 4.5km direct route to the summit with 4,700' of gain. The route starts with a heinous steep climb up loose volcanic scree, but luckily(?) for us it was frozen. So mud-frontpointing in crampons it is! This was painful, but a rapid way to gain elevation. We crested the ridge at El Castillo (18,050') at some point around 11pm. This is where the route gets engaging. Raul led a nice 4th class step and we skirted a few small cliff bands to gain the glacier.
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| We took the red line |
At this point, I was getting beat. The wind was howling, it was cold, and I was in full parka and over mittens. The cold, coupled with just crossing 19,000', had made it a challenge to eat. At about 12:30 I told Raul I needed a break, so we stopped to refuel and assess our (read: my) options. I choked down some cold chews, and Raul poked around in the snow above us. At this point we had already crossed some pretty big crevasses, and the snow conditions were not ideal. The last few days of snow had set up firm over a deep layer of sugary facets, not ideal on a 55 degree slope. Raul tried explaining to me that no one would summit today, and the snow was no good. I, now totally apathetic and ready to go home, agreed without question. Raul was slightly confused about my lack of anger over turning around, so I tried the best I could to explain to him that the mountain wasn't going anywhere, there is always more time, etc. We turned around and headed for the hut, passing groups below us and informing them of the conditions.
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| Summit for the day! Looking down the glacier at 19,100' |
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| Raul and I back at El Castillo, enjoying the beer I had carried up for us |
Practically running down the mud slope, we were back to the hut by 5am, ready for bed. The next morning around ten we headed back down to town, and I straight to bed after that. Then a bus to Quito the next day.
And here I sit, trying to occupy my last day in Quito before heading back to the States tomorrow.
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| Chimborazo (20,564') from the Wymper Hut |
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| The higher hut, Refugio Wymper |
I don't think I would have made the summit had the snow conditions been perfect. The lack of food, combined (I strongly believe) with being awake for the 26 hours before we departed conspired against me. Lots to digest and learn from before Denali this coming May.
